Alternative Cherries

October 16, 2009 at 10:03 pm 12 comments

Cornus mas fruit

This autumn I was taking an interesting and unique class in edible ornamental plants — in other words, eating things you usually put in the landscape to make it look pretty.  It was a very fun class that opened my eyes up to a lot of new “alternative edibles” and reminded me of a few I’d eaten a lot as a kid but hadn’t thought of in quite awhile. 

Cornelian cherry

One of the plants/fruit we studied was Cornus mas or cornelian cherry.  Normally this oversized shrub or undersized tree, depending on how you look at it, is use solely for its glorious sunshiny display of yellow flowers in very early spring when nothing else is in bloom or even green for that matter.   As it turns out, this pretty plant also bears some delicious ruby red fruit.  While the fruit, called cornelian cherries, is pretty small (about the size of a skinny cranberry) it is very prolific so it’s not hard to pick a hefty pail’s worth quickly.   It has a decidedly tart taste so it’s not very good eaten raw.  Instead, cook it up into sauces and jam with a sizable scoop of sugar, and it’s a suitable stand-in for any recipe using the more popular cranberry.   The only real drawback to using cornelian cherries is the pesky pit – just like a regular cherry – that requires an extra processing step to remove.   Still it’s worth the work to give this new “alternative edible” a try.

cornelian cherries

Cornelian cherries are available in the fall, usually in September, though different trees ripen up at different times, depending on the little microclimate surrounding that particular tree.  The tree I was picking from was actually right next to three others, two of which weren’t even close to being ready and one that had already passed, the birds having stripped it clean.  It can be a little challenging to identify a Cornus mas if you didn’t plant it yourself.  My best advice to you, considering they’re over for this year already anyway, is to pay attention in the spring for any bright yellow flowering shrubs/trees that aren’t a forsythia bush.  Make a note of where you saw it and revisit that plant in the fall to see if it has these fruit on it. 

Alternative Cherries

In addition to the Cornus mas fruit, there’s another oddball cherry in this post.  That’s the tasty candy-like Physalis pruinosa or ground cherry that I’ve featured in this recipe, and this recipe, and this recipe in the past.  I really love these golden orbs.  I discovered over the summer that this plant grows very well in a container on a baking hot deck in the city so I’d definitely suggest it for other urbanites looking for a highly productive food crop that’s versatile in the kitchen.   Nothing quite like popping these puppies out of their husk and straight into your waiting mouth. 

Cornelian and Ground Cherry Sauce

So this post gives you two recipes for the price of one — Cornelian & Ground Cherry Sauce along with Cornelian Cherry Jam — mostly because I forgot to take pictures of the jam before it all got gobbled up on whole grain toast over the course of a week’s breakfast.  I really like the tart sweet combination the cornelian cherry adds to both these preparations.

lifes a bowl of cherries

 

Cornelian & Ground Cherry Sauce
A Straight from the Farm Original

1 C. ripe cornelian cherries (Cornus mas)
½ C. ripe ground cherries
half a vanilla bean, split and scraped
1/3 C. (scant) sugar

Sort and clean the fruit and wash it.   In a small saucepan, cover the cornelian cherries with water and bring to a boil for 15 minutes or until they are soft.  Use a food mill, cheese cloth or a colander with a potato masher to press the pulp and juice out into.  Set aside. 

Using the same small saucepan, simmer the ground cherries in just a splash of water, cooking until they soften, about 5 minutes.  Smash with a spoon or potato masher. 

Combine the two fruit pulps in the saucepan and add the vanilla bean and sugar.  Simmer over very low heat for 15 minutes to let the sugar dissolve and the flavors combine. 

Serve as a warm sauce over savory dishes of meat or fish.  Or chill and serve over generous scoops of ice cream. 

(makes about a half cup of sauce)

 

More cornelian cherries

 

Cornelian Cherry Jam
Adapted from Almost Turkish Recipes

6 C. fresh cornelian cherries (Cornus mas)
3 C. water
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
6 C. sugar
½ t. freshly squeezed lemon juice

Wash and sort the cornelian cherries, removing any stems and rotten fruit.  Wash in cool water and drain.

Combine cleaned cherries and the three cups of water in a large heavy saucepan.  Bring to a boil and keep at a boil for 15 minutes or until the fruit is soft.  Turn off heat and add the vanilla bean scrapings, stirring well.   Allow to cool.

Using a food mill, cheese cloth, or even a colander with a potato masher, press the fruit pulp and juices out into a bowl.  This process can take a lot of elbow grease and you will feel like you aren’t getting that much “good stuff”, but it will be worth it.   Rinse out the saucepan you had been using and return it to the stove, pouring in the fruit pulp and juice. 

Add the sugar and lemon juice to the fruit juice and bring everything to a rolling boil.  Make a note of the time or set a timer for 6 minutes once the mixture starts to boil.  A pink foam will form as it boils; use a large spoon to skim off this foam and discard it. 

Meanwhile sterilize your jars by filling them with an inch or two of water and microwaving on high for 4 minutes.  In a small saucepan with water, simmer the lids until ready to seal the jars.  At this point, your jelly is probably about ready to come off the stove.

Turn off the heat and allow the jelly to cool slightly but no more than 15 minutes as it will set up quickly due to the cornelian cherries’ high pectin content.  Place a jar in a small bowl to catch any drips and keep your hands from getting burned.  Use a ladle to fill the jars, being sure to wipe the rims very clean when you’re finished.  Drain off the water from the lids and seal each jar tightly.  Turn upside down and cover with a kitchen towel – this should seal the jars but if you’d like to be safe (should you be considering giving this jelly as a unique gift for the holidays), process the jars in a hot water bath as directed here. 

(makes about 5 half pint jars)

Entry filed under: Recipes, Sweet Treats. Tags: , , .

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12 Comments Add your own

  • 1. Donna Earnshaw  |  October 16, 2009 at 10:43 pm

    These look great. Did you go to an orchard or are these growing wild somewhere? I’d love to know where to pick them next year.

    Reply
    • 2. Jennie  |  October 17, 2009 at 6:54 am

      Nope, no orchard for the cornelian cherries. But these are pretty common in the landscape…not really “wild” per say, just planted around a lot in parks, public gardens, and neighbors yards. 🙂 I picked mine from a stand along a road near my house, with permission of the property owners, of course. Oh, and the ground cherries are growing in a pot on my deck, as mentioned. Those you might find at a farmers market. Hope that helps!

      Reply
  • 3. Era  |  October 17, 2009 at 5:13 pm

    I have a bunch of ground cherries in the freezer waiting for a recipe, thanks for linking back to the other recipes!

    Reply
    • 4. Jennie  |  October 21, 2009 at 8:45 pm

      Awesome! Where did you grow/get yours? Inquiring minds want to know! 🙂

      Reply
  • 5. Louise  |  October 20, 2009 at 7:10 pm

    Hi Jennie,
    You have no idea how delighted I was to see this post. First, because I have always been fascinated by edible landscape design and hope to incorporate the concept when I get to PA.

    I did not know about these little darlings until just the other day. I did a post which included a recipe for A Wine Vinegar for Autumn which I discovered in Transylvanian Cuisine by Paul Kovi. I linked to wiki for a definition for the cornel as I thought perhaps, visitors would be unfamiliar with it like I was. I am going to change that link to your wonderful post and recipes. How cool is that, three for the “price” of two:)

    Thanks for sharing, Jennie. Here’s the link in case you want to check out the post.

    Reply
    • 6. Jennie  |  October 21, 2009 at 8:41 pm

      Oh, that is so funny, Louise! What a coincidence! I love that post of yours — you are just so darn creative and really good at doing your research. 🙂 Now, if you ever want to talk edible landscape design in PA, you just let me know. I’ve got loads of ideas! 🙂

      Reply
  • 7. Louise  |  October 22, 2009 at 6:44 am

    Thanks Jennie. I may just take you up on that!!!

    Reply
  • 8. Sylvie, Rappahannock Cook & Kitchen Gardener  |  October 23, 2009 at 10:06 am

    I have been pondering getting a couple of Cornus mas for the garden – did not know anybody who had eaten the fruit, though I knew they were edible. So thank you for this post!

    I grow a close cousin of Physalis pruinosa: P. peruviana, also called ground cherry. I tried pruinosa, but it did not do well for me in Virginia, unlike peruviana. I wrote about them recently too, including my jam version (much less original than yours, I have to say – but the fruit is so good). Anyway, if interested the post is here:
    http://www.laughingduckgardens.com/ldblog.php/2009/09/29/on-ground-cherries/

    Sylvie

    Reply
    • 9. Skip  |  August 29, 2014 at 4:20 pm

      Sylvie,

      There are cornus mas growing very well up here in Chantilly, VA, (Fairfax County) not far from where you live. I could not grow them very well in southern Virginia, in Suffolk (just above North Carolina), but they grow great in Chantilly. I just picked 2 large bags of cherries yesterday and today. As long as the soil isn’t too acidic, which it is on my farm in Suffolk, they should be OK. I’m going to buy a couple more. It’s nice that they ripen in August and September, because the regular cherries (Black Tartarian and Prince Ranier) I have here in the yard are played out by late May. I hope this encourages you to give them a try.

      Skip

      Reply
  • 10. Niki  |  September 10, 2011 at 2:20 pm

    Can someone please tell me where to find Carnelian Cherries farm who will ship them to you?

    Reply
    • 11. Skip  |  August 29, 2014 at 4:36 pm

      Niki,

      I bought mine from One Green World. They’re in Portland, Oregon. Their web site is: https://www.onegreenworld.com
      At last check, they had 5 different varieties to choose from. I recommend you get them a try.

      Skip

      Reply
  • […] even that they taste like rhubarb. Now, I love picking my own food and I pick crazy things like Cornelian cherries and laboriously put them through a food mill to make jam two Christmases in a row. But I have […]

    Reply

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